Agarwood, also called oud or oudh, smells resinous, smoky and faintly barnyard, with an intense warmth and a medicinal depth. It is the most expensive perfumery material by weight and the spiritual heart of Middle Eastern fragrance.
The material forms inside Aquilaria trees when the heartwood is infected by a mould (Phialophora parasitica). In self-defence the tree produces a dark, aromatic resin that permeates the wood. Only a small percentage of wild trees develop oud naturally, which is why most commercial supply now comes from inoculated plantation trees in Cambodia, Laos, Assam and Thailand. The resinous wood is steam-distilled into oil (dehn al oud) or burned as chips (bakhoor).
Agarwood is a base note and a dominant one. Perfumers pair it with rose and saffron in classical Arabian compositions, with leather and spice in modern niche work (Tom Ford Oud Wood, Montale), and with patchouli and musk in smoother Western interpretations.
Agarwood performs best in cold weather and evenings, and projects strongly on skin.
