Amouage Lustre Essence de Parfum on raw silk of oxblood color with a brass bowl with ambergris tincture

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Patchouli Perfumes & Fragrances

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Patchouli smells damp, earthy and slightly sweet, like wet soil after rain with a camphorous, smoky edge. It divides opinion more than almost any other note.

The raw material is Pogostemon cablin, a shrubby mint native to Southeast Asia and grown commercially in Indonesia, India and parts of Brazil. Leaves are dried and partially fermented before steam distillation, which deepens the scent: young oil is sharper, aged oil smoother and more chocolatey. Fractional distillation can remove the top-note mustiness to give a cleaner, fruitier material used in modern niche work.

Patchouli is a base note and a workhorse. It anchors chypres alongside oakmoss and bergamot, grounds the 1970s oriental family, and supplies the dark backbone behind modern fruity-floral compositions like Angel and every gourmand chocolate accord.

Patchouli suits cooler months, evenings and heavier fabrics. Applied lightly, it also performs well layered under florals in summer.

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