Iris Perfumes & Fragrances

Iris in perfume rarely smells like the flower. It smells cool, powdery and subtly rooty, with a buttery carrot-like warmth and a quiet violet lift. It is one of perfumery's most aristocratic notes.

The material comes from the rhizomes (underground stems), not the flowers. Iris pallida (Tuscany) and Iris germanica are the main species. Rhizomes are harvested, dried and aged for three to five years to allow the key aroma molecules (irones) to develop. The aged rhizomes are steam-distilled to produce iris butter (a solid wax) or solvent-extracted to produce iris absolute. The whole process can take seven years, which is why iris is one of the most expensive naturals in perfumery.

Iris is a heart note. Perfumers use it to add refined powdery elegance to florals, to bridge florals and woods in unisex niche (Prada Infusion d'Iris, Dior Homme, Chanel 28 La Pausa), and to give grandeur to leather and rose compositions.

Iris performs best in spring, autumn and transitional weather.